What I ate in Tunisia as a Vegetarian
It was such a joy to explore Morocco as a vegetarian, and it made me wonder how Tunisia was going to compare. Spoiler: nowhere near as veggie-friendly, but I did find some local meat-free specialities.
Scroll down to see what I ate on my quick 3‑day trip to Tunisia.
Tabouna
Tabouna is a flour bread, baked along the walls of an oven, itself also called tabouna. It’s round and quite flat, somewhat similar to pita bread.
I had one at a small café down the road from my hotel. They usually come with meat, but the owner, Karim, replaced it for me with an omelette. (I consider eggs vegetarian and do eat them from time to time.) It was super filling and made for a perfect brunch meal that day! I liked it so much that I went there again the following morning.
Chez Karim on Rue de Cologne
This post would end right here if it wasn’t for the people I met by chance the other day, including two friendly locals. The next few dishes I had with them at Restaurant Waywa in La Goulette.
Brik
A deep-fried crispy pastry that comes in a variety of fillings. Again, I had it with egg (brik a l’oeuf), which actually is the most signature version, but this triangular snack can be also served with meat or cheese inside.
Mechouia salad
The word “mechouia” means “grilled”, and that’s exactly what this dish is – vegetables like tomatoes, peppers and onions roasted slowly over a grill. Slata méchouia is typically served as a side dish to share, often with tuna, olives or slices of boiled egg on top. It’s particularly popular during summertime.
Mechouia salad, between a plate of salade tunisienne and a bowl of fish soup
Salade tunisienne
Known far and wide under different names, this “Tunisian salad” consisted of tomatoes, cucumbers and lettuce. Nothing to write home about, but it worked well as a light starter.
Cousous
If all else fails, there is always couscous! It’s a staple across North Africa and a must-try when you’re visiting the region. Couscous can be served in countless ways, many of them vegan-approved.
My main meal at Waywa that evening was a hearty plate of couscous with vegetables.
Drinks
Coffee culture in Tunisia is extensive, heavily influenced by its ex-colonizer, France. The most popular options are: direct, also known as café au lait (a local version of caffè latte), and a regular espresso.
But the signature drink in Tunisia hands down is mint tea, central to pretty much every social occasion. And no, I’m not talking about a dry blend in a tea bag! In the Maghreb region it is made with fresh leaves …and a serious amount of sugar. It’s aromatic and flavoursome, and often served with pine nuts on top.
No pine nuts were ever in my tea, but lemonade (or citronnade) once came with a handful of almonds.
We had these at Art Café in Sidi Bou Saïd, a rooftop bar with a gorgeous panoramic view of the town and the Gulf of Tunis.
Pastries
Yes, I know these are not historically Tunisian, but during the protectorate era, France has naturally made its mark on the local cuisine. Today, finding a croissant or pain au chocolat is as easy there as in Paris.
Sweet breakfast at Porta Nova
Is that everything that Tunisia has to offer for vegetarians? Absolutely not! Such a short visit can’t be enough for a proper exploration, and it’s not something that was on my agenda anyway.
Veggie food really isn’t common in Tunisia, but you’ll get it if you ask. Waiters and shopkeepers will be happy to tailor dishes for you, or even come up with something special outside of the menu. 🙂
