In Europe, lesser-known places are always a better pick for me than tourist hotspots. Somehow I’m more attracted to countries you don’t hear much about, and Moldova fits right into that description. Its capital, Chișinău, doesn’t have the best opinion – but that’s exactly why it appealed to me!

The least visited European capital? Sounds exciting! The most boring capital in Europe? Well, I can’t wait to see and judge it for myself.

Last summer, I spent 3 full days in Moldova, during which I managed to see all Chișinău essentials and even squeezed in a day trip to Tiraspol.

Stephen the Great Central Park

Most attractions in Chișinău are scattered along the bustling Stephen the Great Boulevard (Bulevardul Ștefan cel Mare). Around the halfway point, there’s a park named after the much-celebrated Medieval ruler, and his statue is standing tall in front of the entrance.

Inside the park, the Alley of Classics (Aleea Clasicilor), lined with busts of Moldovan literary and political figures, leads you to an impressive fountain in the middle. Other attractions include the Pushkin statue, a few cafés and an open-air gym.

Cathedral Park

Another pleasant park is just across the boulevard, boasting one of the most popular buildings in the city: the Nativity Cathedral, built in 1830. With its cafés, fountains and well-maintained alleys, the park makes for a great place to hang out any time of the day. In fact, that’s where I went for coffee with my friend Stefan who happened to be in the city at the same time. My first full day overlapped with his last – what a coincidence!

The Triumphal Arch

Just outside Cathedral Park is the Triumphal Arch (Arcul de Triumf). It dates back to 1840 and commemorates the victory of the Russian Empire over the Ottomans during the Russo-Turkish War.

Valea Morilor Park

Hands down the most picturesque place in Chișinău! From the small colonnades at the entrance to the marvellous Cascade Stairs, this park wouldn’t be out of place somewhere in Paris or Vienna.

Take a walk around the lake and keep your eyes open for a cute Little Prince statue. The adorable character from de Saint-Exupéry’s classic book stands atop one of the fence posts. At about 4 inches/11 centimetres, he’s really Little and easy to miss, but at least clearly marked on Google Maps.

Tucano

Chișinău can hardly be described as a coffee shop hub, but you can’t visit the city without going to Tucano. What started as a local business in 2011, has grown to an international chain with 50 branches across several countries! All shops have a distinct Latin-inspired decor and are named after warm faraway places.

Tucano is pretty much like any Western café franchise (which is also reflected in premium prices), but it’s a national pride in Moldova and a must-see for the tourists.

Brutalist buildings

Being part of the former USSR, Chișinău has some treats for the lovers of brutalist architecture. In fact, there are so many that they deserve a separate post. Highlights include Hotel Cosmos, tower block Romanița, and the abandoned State Circus.

Religious sites

The Nativity Cathedral may be the symbol of Chișinău, but my favourite is the eye-catching Ciuflea Monastery, built in the mid-19th century and dedicated to Saint Theodore. The vibrant blue walls go so well with the golden domes!

A stone’s throw from the Presidential Palace is the Transfiguration Church, built at the turn of the 19th and 20th century. It was used as a planetarium during the Soviet times until it caught fire in 1990. Eventually handed back to the Moldovan Orthodox Church, it now serves its original purpose again.

Chișinău train station

This pretty building dates back to the 1940s, replacing the original station destroyed in World War II. Once a decent hub of international links, Chișinău now offers a reduced range of connections as a result of the Covid pandemic, and due to the strained political climate in the area.

The station is worth going out of your way, especially if you’re an architecture or transport enthusiast. Make sure you also check out the neat square in front of it and the Monument to the Deportees, honouring the victims of Stalinist Repression.

Eternity Memorial Complex

This impressive memorial commemorates Soviet soldiers who died in World War II. The 25-metre tall pyramid is made of five stone rifles, with an eternal flame in the centre, watched over by guards. Along the main path, huge red stone steles depict milestones of WWII.

The most boring European capital? Depends what you’re looking for, but I’d say this label is very unfair. Chișinău actually had more to offer than I expected! The least visited European capital? Maybe, but hopefully it won’t be long before it catches on with tourists.