Sorry for the clickbaity title, but it’s kind of true. It’s just that the prison in question is now the most unusual hotel I ever stayed in. Gamla Fängelset (which literally means Old Prison) is located in Umeå, a small city in eastern Sweden, a 10-minute walk from the centre.

It opened in the 1860s, following the prison reform of 1841 which humanized and changed the face of the prison experience. One of the best examples of a modern jailhouse, it thankfully survived the devastating fire that swept through Umeå in 1888. The prison then served its original purpose for nearly another century. In the 1980s, it was converted into a hotel, and became a National Monument in 1992.

Today, it invites voluntary prisoners to stay in one of its 28 “cells” spread across two floors. The choice ranges from single or double rooms to four-bed dorms. My one-person room did feel like a prison cell, or a minimal student accommodation at best. A firm bed aside, the narrow space offered a desk, a clothes rail and a mirror. But I was expecting, or even hoping for, as much. Authenticity is part of the experience here! I wasn’t put off by the window bars, nor by the spy hole in the door (which was blacked out anyway). The heavy doors shut with a loud thud, so do remember to close them gently!

Although its prison days are now a very distant past, the building still very much keeps up with the old theme. At the front, you’ll be greeted not only by a very friendly receptionist, but also a ball-and-chain restraint sitting on the floor! At the back, you’ll find a church pulpit perched on the railing. That’s where the inmates would listen to the priest’s sermons. I must say that it creeped me out, and the ghostly artworks on walls only added to the feeling… If you want to dig deeper into the building’s history, the last room on the ground floor serves as a museum.

Upstairs, you’ll find a well equipped kitchen and a large dining area with TV screen. No need to make your breakfast, though, as it’s included in the price of every stay, and is quite varied at that. Being an ex-prison, the hotel only has communal bathrooms.

The general feel of Gamla Fängelset is rather austere, and stylish decorations here and there struggle to make it cosy. But as I said, you come here for the unusual experience, not to indulge in luxury.

An absolute must if you’re passing through Umeå. Also worth going out of your way, even if for one night. It’ll add a spooky touch to your journey through Sweden.

Gamla Fängelset
Storgatan 62
903 30 Umeå, Sweden
https://www.hotellgf.se/