It made me chuckle to see “Banja Luka” when browsing flights some time ago. The name sounds almost identical to the Polish word “banialuki” which means something absurd or nonsensical; tall tales and fanciful stories. I was intrigued and decided to visit it when I’m in the Balkans again.

After 3 days in Banja Luka, I must say that it exceeded my modest expectations. So much so that just before my flight, I hastily put together a TikTok video to promote it. A heated political debate unfolded in the comments and the clip went semi-viral… I promised the viewers to write a proper post about my stay.

So, here it is! Places to see and useful info for first-time visitors to Banja Luka.

Where is Banja Luka?

The location of Banja Luka is a contested issue …and the very reason for all the bickering under my video. Some people took offence when I said it’s located in Bosnia & Herzegovina, and went on to argue that it actually is in Republika Srpska – a division of B&H comparable to Catalonia in Spain, Transnistria in Moldova, or Scotland in the UK.

No disrespect, but Republika Srpska is not a sovereign, independent country, no matter what those separatists claim.

So, for the purpose of this post, let’s say that Banja Luka is located in the north of the country of Bosnia & Herzegovina, in the region called Republika Srpska. It is the second largest city in the country, with about 200,000 inhabitants.

Places to see in Banja Luka

Religious buildings

Bosnia & Herzegovina is a melting pot of religions and Banja Luka is a good reflection of that. You will see a Catholic cathedral, an Orthodox church and a mosque all on the same street. They are literally a short walk from each on the busy King Peter I Karađorđević Street (Ulica Kralja Petra I Karađorđevića). All stunning in their beauty.

Cathedral of Saint Bonaventure

Cathedral of Christ the Saviour

Ferhadija Mosque

Parks!

When I visit new cities, I’m always on a lookout for green spaces. Banja Luka has a decent number of these, and all are looked-after and very clean.

Let’s start with the newest one, King Tvrtko I Kotromanic Park (Park Kralja Stefana Tvrtka I Kotromanića) which only opened in 2024. Its patron is the first king of Bosnia, and now a sculpture of him sat on a horse towers in the centre of the square.

Although surrounded by a busy roundabaout, the park is a relaxing place. It makes you want to sit down on a bench and watch the water flow down the long, colourful cascade when it lights up after dusk.

Bonus points for free water dispensers!

Slightly tucked away from the centre, near where I was staying, is Mladen Stojanović Park. This one has a more local character: families with kids wandering around and groups of joggers making a good use of running paths. I loved the fountain in the middle and the huge mirror tennis ball at the back.

But the heart of the city is Ban Milosavljević Park (Park Bana Milosavljevića), located beside the Presidential Palace and the cultural centre Banski Dvor.

Stone spheres

Since 2021, Ban Milosavljević Park boasts these 3 stone balls adapted into water fountains. They’ve been excavated in a forest near Banja Luka, and are believed to be made by an unknown civilization over 1,000 years ago!

These mysterious spheres were one of the main reasons why I wanted to come here. That’s why I’m including them as a separate “attraction”, even though for an average visitor, they might only serve as a quick stop to refill the water bottle.

Boska shopping centre

At first, I assumed that the sizeable Boska is the main shopping complex in the city, but very quickly someone on TikTok corrected me that that would be Delta Planet in the east of Banja Luka. Still, Boska has an impressive choice of 40 shops spread across 4 levels. You’ll find anything from clothes shops and cosmetics to kids’ toys and electronics, plus a large branch of Moj Market in the basement.

The area around Boska in general seems to be a shopping hub. In particular, the elegant, slightly bent Veselina Masleše Street, commonly known as Gospodska.

War monuments

Across the street from Banski Dvor is the Partisan Memorial honouring soldiers who died in the WW2. The stone monument is in a simple bricked square with a fountain, surrounded by busts of the fighters.

A few steps down the street, I spotted a very eye-catching structure, yet unnamed and still in construction. It turned out that it will honour the soldiers of Republika Srpska killed in the Bosnian War. I marvelled at the huge white square poles every time I walked past.

Kastel Fortress

Best for last? This medieval structure is the oldest building in Banja Luka and arguably the number 1 attraction. Its exact age is unknown, but according to surviving records, it would have been constructed in late 15th century. While in most cities you would have to pay for entry to such a historical building, I found it unbelievable that here it is free to explore for all, and open 24/7!

With river Vrbas and Patra Bridge right beside it, the fortress makes for a highly picturesque spot.

Getting to Banja Luka

By air

Banja Luka is served by one international airport (BNX), also known as Mahovljani Airport after the nearby village of the same name. The flights are very limited, mostly to Sweden and German-speaking countries. You can check the full range on FlightConnections.com.

I will remember this airport as the smallest one I’ve been to so far, with only two gates, both serving the same flight. But I liked it! It has a pleasant character. There is a duty free shop, a café with decently priced food, and an ice cream machine. And Wi-Fi! Pretty much everything you need while waiting for a flight.

The airport is located 18 km/11 miles north of the city centre. Smiljić Company operates minibuses synchronized with the flights, and the timetable is on their website. The bus runs to and from Petar Kočić Park, at the bottom of Vidovdanska Street, and makes a stop at the main bus station. A one-way ticket costs 10 BAM which is about 5 euros, 4.40 GBP or 6 USD.

By bus

If the flights aren’t any convenient to you, there is a direct bus from Sarajevo about 3 times a day. The journey lasts over 5 hours which is a lot, but the views make up for it. I regret not having my phone ready to snap some stunning green mountain scenery!

If you happen to be in Croatia, you can easily cross the border into B&H. A bus from Zagreb or Split to Banja Luka should only take about 3 hours.

Within Banja Luka, there is an extensive network of buses, but I found the city very walkable and didn’t need to take them at all.

Tips

The local currency is convertible mark (konvertibilna marka). Bosnia & Herzegovina is predominantly cash-based. While you can pay with a card in supermarkets and high-end restaurants, expect to be asked for cash pretty much everywhere else.

While Bosnia & Herzegovina does not have official languages, in Banja Luka, you’ll most likely to hear Bosnian and Serbo-Croatian. In my experience, English isn’t spoken very widely, perhaps reflecting the non-touristy character of the city. But thanks to similarities between Polish and the local languages, I made it all work.

Banja Luka was only meant to be a curious add-on at the end of a trip, but I ended up enjoying it more than Sarajevo. What I found was an underrated city that I’d hands-down recommend if you’re in the area.

Have you been to Banja Luka? Maybe you live there? Let me know if there are places to see that I missed here!