On my way to work, I used to walk past the Azerbaijan Visa Centre in London. “That’s an obscure place to visit. I wonder if many people go there”, I remember thinking. I wasn’t even quite sure where it is… And little did I know that a few years later, one of those people will be me!

Visiting Azerbaijan is now very easy. Their electronic visa system covers over 60 countries, and a dozen more can enter visa-free. So, most likely you won’t even need to go to the embassy. In fact, the visa centre on Finchley Road has since closed down.

Getting there

I squeezed this trip just after an Easter visit to Poland. Flights were more limited, but shorter than from London, and much cheaper. Mine was with Polish airlines LOT from Warsaw at 23:00. The staff at the boarding gate seemed a bit surprised as I was probably one of very few tourists going to Baku. 🙂

Two seats resembling half-heads on black and white tilesFountains Square

I love travelling at night! It saves you time, and often money, and is an experience in itself. There’s such a different ambience to it. Luckily, I have no problems with falling asleep on public transport. The only thing that kept me awake on this flight was… the excitement! As the plane was half-empty, I used the two free seats next to me as a bed, and it wasn’t long before I dozed off.

Arriving in Baku

It was after 5 in the morning when we landed. Border control went very smoothly, mainly because there was barely anyone in the non-residents queue.

Outside, I got the first example of local friendliness and hospitality. I was trying to get a bus to the city and none of the nearest ticket machines seemed to work. It’s a slightly complicated system, which I’ll explain in another post.

So, this guy in the queue behind me just… pays for me! He refuses to take anything in return and just wishes me a good time in Baku! I was positively shocked as this would just never happen in a place like London.

Man in green jacket with a black backpack standing in front of a decorated exterior wall, placing left hand on itHome studio of artist Ali Shamsi

First impression

The bus stopped outside the main train station. I headed to the bay, admiring the architecture. It was a mix of sand-coloured Moorish buldings and typical Soviet blocks; Eastern Europe with a Middle Eastern touch.

I soon reached the Baku Boulevard, which is one of the top spots to come for tourists and locals alike. The promenade stretches for well over 5 km and normally bustles with activity. But after 6 am on a Saturday, it was near-deserted and peaceful. The sun was just rising, beautifully reflected in the Caspian Sea.

Modern crescent-shaped skyscraper against morning sky with rising sun and sea below

I love places with a strong café culture, and Baku didn’t disappoint in that respect! My favourite one turned out to be Café de Central in the White Fountain Park. I sat outside, enjoying the moment and planning the day ahead.

Cup of black coffee, plate with three pastries, napkin and cutlery laid out on a table

Old Town

I was staying at the Old City Inn Hotel in the oldest part of the city which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A large part of the medieval wall still stands, and so is the top historical landmark, the Maiden Tower.

It’s easy to get confused in these narrow, winding streets, but that’s the best way to explore the Old City. Simply allow yourself to get lost in the labirynth. 🙂

Nizami Street and beyond

The Old City in Baku is not as busy as you’d expect. The area to the north east is much more lively, mainly around Fountains Square (Fəvvarələr Meydanı). You’ll find there many bars, cafés and restaurants, including some well-known fast food chains which shan’t be named. 😄

Nizami Street (Nizami Küçəsi) is said to be the most popular street in Baku, and one of the most expensive commercial streets in the world. Fully pedestrianised, it houses many shops, restaurants and a few embassies. It feels like the centre of the city.

Tall statue on top of stairs in a park, surrounded by trees, with buildings and blue sky in the backgroundNizami Park

Flame Towers

These fairly new skyscrapers (completed in 2012) are the symbol of Azerbaijan and a reference to its nickname “Land of Fire”. They’re a mix of offices and residential apartments, plus a hotel, and have the average height of 169 m (555 ft). At night, the three towers show visualizations of giant flames and the national flag.

Modern skyscrapers against a cloudy sky, with trees below and a man standing in the foreground

The best spot to admire the towers is from the Highland Park located at their feet. It’s quite a bit of an uphill walk, but you can take the funicular. I went there multiple times – during the day and after dusk for comparison. The park has an observation balcony where you see the towers up close and get an astonishing view of the whole city and the bay.

At the back, there’s Martyr’s Lane and Eternal Flame monument dedicated to the victims killed by the Soviet Army during the First Nagorno-Karabakh War.

Heydar Aliyev Center

My flight wasn’t leaving until 17:30, so I had a lot of time for one more relaxed café visit, and a walk to the Heydar Aliyev Center. It’s slightly outside the central, and I had a chance to explore a part of city I haven’t been to yet. I admired the wonderful architectural hotch-potch as I walked! On the busy Khatai Avenue, AYF Palace Hotel caught my eye. I might stay there next time I’m in Baku! I was also excited when I spotted a statue of the underappreciated genius Nikola Tesla.

Some would say I saved the best for last. The Heydar Aliyev Center is another modern symbol of Azerbaijan, opened around the same time as the Flame Towers. It was designed by Zaha Hadid and named after former president. It’s the most Instagrammable spot in the city, especially with the “I love Baku” sign strategically placed in front of it.

White futuristic building on top of a green field against blue sky, with huge sign spelling "I love Baku" in the foreground

The building houses a museum, a performance hall, and exhibition and conference spaces. Sadly, I didn’t have a chance to go inside, or even come close to the center. After snappping a few photos from afar, I had to rush back and take the bus to the airport.

Leaving Baku

I flew back to London with Azerbaijan Airlines (AZAL). Spent the 6‑hour flight reading and catching up on sleep. Wanted to watch Arif Babayev’s The Day Passed, a classic of Azerbaijani cinema. But it was only in Azeri, so bad luck. Anyone knows where I can find a subtitled version?

The views were pretty spectacular, especially above the Caucasus Mountains. That’s where the turbulence hit the hardest, though!

I stayed in Azerbaijan for 3 nights which was enough to explore Baku and even squeeze in a day trip outside the city. Yet I left wishing I’d allowed more time for a more in-depth and relaxed trip. If it’s your first visit, I’d say five days is a must.

Click here for other Baku recommendations.