To an average tourist, Chișinău may seem lacking in typical sights. But if you’re a brutalist architecture buff, it’s a whole different story! Being part of the former USSR, this city has some real gems of Soviet modernism. And you don’t need to venture too far from the centre to find them!

Here are some of the concrete “ugly beauties” I came across during my first trip to Chișinău.

Hotel Cosmos

You can’t miss Hotel Cosmos, towering above the busy Constantin Negruzzi Roundabout. In front of the building, there is a statue of the controversial figure Grigory Kotovsky on a horse.

Designed by Boris Banykin and Irina Kolbayeva, Cosmos was the largest hotel in the city when it opened in 1983. Depending on the source, it covered anywhere between 19 and 24 floors, and offered a high-end experience for its time. It remained very popular until the 90s, when the number of guests drastically declined – and so did its reputation.

The hotel barely changed through the decades. When it closed at the start of the Covid pandemic in 2020, it still had the authentic Soviet feel. Some of the last guest reviews mentioned kitsch decor and outdated facilities in need of renovation. All this for adequate rates starting from 29 euros.

A threat of demolition looms over this iconic building, but I pray it won’t happen!

Hotel Național

No less iconic is Hotel Național, located at the bottom of Stephen the Great Boulevard. Designed by Alexei Gorbuntsov and Valeri Shalaginov, it opened in 1978 as Intourist Hotel, and went on to becoming the go-to accommodation of foreign visitors and Soviet celebrities.

Like in the case of Cosmos, Național’s glory days also ended with the fall of the old system in the early 90s. After changing hands a number of times, it eventually closed in 2006, and has been slowly turning into ruin ever since. Although boarded up, the hotel was eventually taken over by squatters.

A huge Ukrainian flag was painted on the building’s facade in 2022, but replaced with national colours of Moldova two years later. Demolition plans were put to a stop thanks to public efforts to preserve the building for its historical and architectural significance.

Moldtelecom headquarters

This colossal building dominates much of Chișinău’s skyline, and the elaborate antenna makes it instantly recognizable. Designed by a team of architects A. Kireev, N. Dorofeev, S. Mukhin and V. Shalaginov, it was completed in 1983. Initially, it belonged to the Ministry of Communications of the Moldavian Soviet Socialist Republic (MSSR). After the fall of communism, it became the headquarters for the national telecommunications operator, Moldtelecom.

The monolithic, bleak tower overwhelms the surroundings with its appearance. You’ll walk past it at one point or another as it’s right next to Stephen the Great Boulevard. Pay attention also to the smaller adjoining buildings, and make sure you walk around the back to check out the mosaic on Tighina Street. A typical form of art of its time and a Soviet publicity tool, this one hypes up technological advancements of the USSR.

Romanița

Another symbol of the bygone era is the residential tower block Romanița, also known by its Russian nickname Romashka. The creators of this ghastly beauty were Oleg Vronski, Alexandru Marian and their team of collaborators. When completed in 1986, it became the tallest building in the city, although sources report contradicting heights, varying from 73 to 91 metres.

Romanița is famous for its cylindrical shape and curved, “wavy” balconies. Perched on top is what appears to be an alien spaceship, perhaps reflecting the “cosmic” trend of the late-Soviet brutalism. Although its condition is gradually declining, Romanița still serves as a durable home to its many residents.

The tower is well worth a trek to the suburbs! Take the bus no. 9 from the city centre to Nicolae Testemițanu Street, and then it’s just a 15-minute walk. But why not cover it all on foot (about 1 hour) and explore a sleepy, residential part of Chișinău?

City Gates

The famous City Gates (Porțile Orașului) are two colossal residential blocks on both sides of Dacia Boulevard at the southern edge of the city. Designed by couple Yuri Tumanyan and Yulia Skvortsova, they were built in the mid-80s over just two years! Innovative for the time, the symmetrical, stepped buildings still impress visitors, greeting them in their own imposing way.

I managed to take a quick snap of only one of the gates from my bus to Tiraspol. For the best view, sit at the front of your bus from the airport. And have your camera ready!

State Circus

This one’s my favourite and I want to say I left the best for last! The abandoned State Circus is on Renașterii Naționale Boulevard, about a 30-minute walk north-east from the centre. Plenty of buses can take you there, but again, I recommend getting there on foot. The architecture you’ll see on your way is worth attention, even if not all of it is brutalist.

Circul de Stat was designed by Alla Kirichenko and Semyon Shoykhet, and opened in 1981. Towards the late 80s, two huge clowns appeared above the entrance – a sculpture by Matvey Levinson. One of them is now missing the head which gives off a slightly grotesque feel…

Although extremely popular during the Soviet times, its popularity waned in the 90s, and the circus eventually closed down in 2004. After years of disuse, its condition has deteriorated, but in 2019, the building was officially listed as a heritage monument. It’s now in the process of renovation thanks to financial backing from the EU and the United Nations, according to the info board I saw on my recent trip. Hopefully, next time I visit, it will have re-opened to its former glory.

Albişoara Street estates

Chișinău is so full of brutalist residential blocks that you’ll find them without going out of your way. Just like I stumbled upon the estates off Albişoara Street while walking to the circus. Most of them were designed by Yulia Skvortsova and built in the 80s. Although not as distinctive as Romanița and City Gates, they still made for a delightful sighting. The one that stands out is the curved, horseshoe-like block by Isaac Șvarțev near the Ismail Road flyover.

Sources

10 fapte interesante despre Hotelul „Cosmos”. Chișinău, orașul meu
Hotel Cosmos Chisinau – Official Website
The Hotel Cosmos Hotel Chisinau – Gone for good? The Street Food Guy
Republic of Moldova. SocialistModernism
Sights in Moldova. The Eastern Blog
Analiza patrimoniului modernist-socialist în Republica Moldova prin patru studii de caz. Dumitru Rusu
Cea mai înaltă clădire din Chișinău, „mâncată” de purici și bătută de vânt. Timpul
Communist-era architecture in Chisinau, Moldova. Kathmandu & Beyond
City Gate. Visit Chișinău
Chisinau State Circus, once the best in the USSR. HiMoldova