I took to travelling around Germany quite late (first time just over a year ago), but I’m catching up quickly. I can now add Nuremberg (Nürnberg) as the fourth city on my list!

It was pretty much the way I expected, but I didn’t get to sample any traditional local food. As a hardcore vegetarian, I knew that finding meat-free dishes within Bavarian cuisine would be wishful thinking. I also didn’t have a single lebkuchen – a traditional local cookie, but I heard that it tastes similar to gingerbread, so I don’t think I missed out on much.

A weekend in Nuremberg turned out enough to see the main sights, albeit more on the superficial side. For a thorough exploration, I’d recommend 4 days. And these are the spots you want to include in your itinerary.

 

The Old Town

Nuremberg’s main attraction is hands down the Old Town (Altstadt), dating back to the Middle Ages. Nearly wiped out towards the end of the Second World War, it was then faithfully rebuilt, maintaining historical character. Particularly charming are the city walls, stretching for about 4 kilometers. Punctuated by many gates and towers, the structure is one of the most impressive of its kind in Europe.

I’m always on a lookout for public art in new cities, and in Nuremberg, I came across two quirky sculptures almost immediately. At the bottom of Fleischbrücke (Meat Bridge), there is Schüsselas-Brunnen (Bowl Fountain), an eye-catching fountain designed by Helmut Lederer in the late 70s. As the name suggests, it consists of 60 copper bowls stacked on top of another to make the shape of a pine. A few steps back, my eyes had caught Welthandel (World Trade), a 1972 work by Hella Rossner-Böhnlein.

Schüsselas-Brunnen by Helmut Lederer

Nuremberg Castle

The Nuremberg Castle (Nürnberger Burg or Kaiseburg) sits on a hill in the northern part of the Old Town. Its glory is dimmed only by the fact that it is actually a reconstruction. Like the rest of the Old Town, the castle was severely damaged during the bombings of 1945. Now it is a magnet for tourists who don’t mind the steep path leading up to it. The view from the terrace is well worth the climb!

Albrecht Dürer House

Renaissance painter Albrecht Dürer was Nuremberg’s most famous resident ever. The city’s airport is rightly named after him. The house he once lived and worked is a short walk down from the castle. It was restored in 1971 on Dürer’s 500th birthday, and is now a museum, with tours available in German and English. There’s a lively square with pubs and restaurants nearby, and less than 5 minutes away, you’ll find a statue of the artist. Dürer is considered Germany’s greatest painter.

Hauptmarkt and Schöner Brunnen

The bustling Hauptmarkt is the heart of Nuremberg. The city’s main open-air market offers rows of stalls selling fruit, vegetables, flowers, fresh bread and street food. In December, it transforms into the most popular Christmas Market in Germany. But the biggest attraction here is Schöner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain), which lives up to its name. It was built in the late 14th century as a spire to top the nearby church. In the end, it was displayed as a standalone structure in the square. Today, tourists queue up to turn its copper ring three times. It’s said to bring you good luck!

Schöner Brunnen

Churches

The Old Town boasts three stunning Gothic-era churches. The Catholic Frauenkirche (Our Lady Church) towers over the main market. Its iconic mechanical clock (Männleinlaufen) activates at midday and displays a scene involving the Holy Roman Emperor, prince-electors and musicians. Just around the corner, there’s the now-Lutheran Sebalduskirche (St. Sebald Church). And less than a 10-minute walk south, you’ll find the Evangelical Lorenzkirche (St. Lawrence Church).

Lorenzkirche

In the eastern part of the Old Town, I stumbled upon Synagogendenkmal, a memorial dedicated to a synagogue than once stood there. The accompanying caption explains that the Moorish-style building dated back to 1874, and was destroyed by the Nazis in August 1938. You’ll find it on Spitalbrücke (Hospital Bridge) at the junction with Leo Katzenberger Street.

Flea Market Island

Nuremberg’s river Pegnitz is a pleasure to walk along and across, with its historical bridges and three islands. The middle one, Trödelmarktinsel, was named after a market that was opened there in the Middle Ages. Today, it still has many boutiques, cafés and restaurants, and even an art gallery. Thanks to its eastern tip, the island is also known as Liebesinsel (Love Island) and Romantische Insel (Romantic Island). The willow melancholily weeping above water and ducks serenely swimming around create a special ambience. Only sometimes can it get overcrowded and a bit rowdy.

Lieblingsstrand

Quite frankly, central Nuremberg is lacking in city parks. Apart from scraps of greenery running along the Old Town wall, there is only somewhat of a park on the easternmost and the biggest island, Schütt. During warm months, it hosts an artificial beach, Lieblingsstrand. You can get snacks and cocktails from the bars, relax in one of the many beach chairs, and even have a dip in the swimming pool. It’s open every day apart from Monday, from mid-afternoon until late evening. And it’s free!

Congress Hall

Nuremberg is known for some really dark and chilling moments in Germany’s history. Near the outskirts of the city, you’ll find the U‑shaped Congress Hall (Kongresshalle), the site of the Nazi Party rallies in the 1930s. The building was actually never completed, and after the WWII, it fell into state of disuse for many decades. It is now home to the Nuremberg Symphonic Orchestra and a museum addressing the problematic past. It offers a tour of the whole complex, but I found the idea of even going in very off-putting. Instead, I admired the Hall from the outside, purely for its architectural merits. Shameful origins aside, it really is an impressive building: clearly inspired by the style of Ancient Rome, with an elegant curve modelled on the Colosseum. The surrounding greenery and lakes invite for a relaxing walk, only a 15-minute tram ride from the noisy city centre.

Congress Hall

Großer Dutzendteich

Red-Light District

Did you know that Nuremberg has a proper red-light district? Me neither, until I unknowingly walked into it on the way to my hotel. You’ll find it in the south-western part of the Old Town, although tucked away from view. It runs along the inner side of the wall, between Engelhardsgasse and Ottostraße. On these adjoining streets there are many bars and nightclubs. I hope I don’t have to tell you this, but DO NOT take photos of the girls in windows! If you do, you might end up with a bruised face – and it’ll be very well deserved.